Ssshhh…

I can still remember clearly how I celebrated my New Year’s Eve.  Just like thousands other people, we went to Dubai Mall to watch the hotly anticipated Burj Khalifa’s NYE fireworks.  Everybody was there, young and old, male and female, couples and singles, rich and poor… and everybody was there for just one reason: it was the New Year’s Eve - a time for a big celebration.  In the opposite side of Dubai, another few thousands flocked to the Jumeirah Beach Road, in front of the world’s first seven-star hotel Burj Al Arab to be precise.  Again, they were there for the NY celebration.  And inside the hotel itself, another couple of hundreds were at the end of a Gala Dinner worth thousands of dirhams each, and with a glass of bubbly getting ready for, guess what, the NY celebration.  As the clock strikes back to 00.00hrs, the fireworks started simultaneously all across the city and thousands of amazed spectators cheered, clapped and blew their horns, welcoming the first day of a new year.

New Year is indeed identical with parties and celebrations.  People are OK with spending hundreds or thousands of dollars for that special evening.  Therefore, it might be quite startling to many that in one part of the world, New Year is spent in total silence and extreme tranquility.  This part is called Bali.

Bali is the only predominantly Hindu province in the Muslim-dominated Indonesia and it is famous worldwide for beautiful beaches and superb nightlife.  But Balinese Hindus celebrate their version of New Year (Caka New Year) in a way unfathomable by many, i.e.: taking a 24-hour total hiatus of their daily routines or aptly called Nyepi (meaning “going into silence”).

All ports (including the airport) and bus terminals shut down and the normally busy and congested roads are completely devoid of cars and any other vehicle.  Parents stay at home with their children and gather in family prayers and meditation.  All lights are turned off simultaneously once the “celebration” starts; which according to the local Hindu calendar system is at 06.00 AM and only turned on the next day at 06.00 AM.

In Balinese Hinduism, New Year is all about getting yourself (and the whole universe) purified and starting a new era afresh and rejuvenated.  This involves a series of purification rituals commencing up to one week before the New Year itself as follows:

Melasti or Makiyis – starting from a week before Nyepi, Hindus took themselves and their local temple’s sacred effigies (pratima) on a devotional journey to the seashore for purification called melasti or makiyis.  This journey normally spans a few kilometres and done on foot instead of cars or motorbikes, showing their devotion to God and their family’s guardian spirits.  In Hinduism, water represents pureness and the ocean therefore is a symbol of ultimate purification and spiritually cleanses all dirts and filths we humans have piled up from the previous year.

Tawur Kesanga - the day before the New Year is dedicated to the bhuta kala.  Families prepare a number of offerings for the bhuta kala.  The word bhuta kala is normally understood as evil spirits, however it actually refers to wandering spirits which are not necessarily evil.  It might be a bit startling as to why Hindus meticulously prepare offerings to these low-level spirits while the general consensus puts these ghosts or wandering spirits as something we declare war with.  But the main substance of Hinduism focuses around creating harmony and maintaining balance among all creatures in the universe.  Hinduism does not teach its devotees to cast away or attack ghosts but rather to acknowledge their existence and live a harmonious life with them, just like you would with your neighbours.

Nyepi Day – Balinese Hindus observe Caka New Year by abstaining from the followings for a full 24 hours and focusing more on their spiritual well-beings.

Ÿ   Turning on lights, fire, and electricity (amati gni)

Ÿ   Working (amati karya)

Ÿ   Travelling (amati lelungan)

Ÿ   Engaging in entertainments or games (amati lelanguan)

Although it might sound unbearable and scary, it actually is not.  In fact, it rejuvenates and refreshes, giving everybody a chance to reflect back to the previous year and thus helps us prepare for the new beginning of life.  Imagine a day without daily routines, where everybody is absorbed in absolute silence.  The air is devoid of pollution and becomes purified and smoke-free, giving us that rare chance to indulge in the lovely fragrance of the flowers instead.  The sounds of cars and motorbikes diminish and replaced by the sounds of the roosters, dogs, and geckos.

For the past few years, what seems to be an unbearable 24-hour of absolute silence has in fact become a period thousands of avid travellers wait impatiently for.  Most hotels in Bali are booked far in advance, showing just how badly many people miss escaping from the hustle-bustle of the urban life.     

Ngembak Geni – The next few weeks after Nyepi, Hindus usually carry out religious social activities, which are best summed as The Five Dharmas, i.e.:

Ÿ   Dharma Shanti or a social event where everyone in the neighbourhood gathers and forgive each other’s wrongdoings for the past year

Ÿ   Dharma Tula or religious sermons, usually carried out during a dharma shanti

Ÿ   Dharma Gita or singing religious chants

Ÿ   Dharma Sedana or alms-giving

Ÿ   Dharma Yatra or visiting holy places and temples

In short, Ngembak Geni signifies the beginning of a new life where Balinese Hindus resume their daily routines and activities with a purified spirit and renew their social ties by visiting families and relatives. 

Happy Caka New Year to all!  Silent mode is on…